Flamenco Beach, Culebra

On Labor Day I boarded the East Islander power catamaran and headed 20 miles east to the island of Culebra. Since my arrival to Puerto Rico every person I have spoken with has told me I needed to visit Culebra so I made it a mission to find a way to go.

There are a few options for getting to Culebra. One is by ferry, however it books up quickly and it's hard to get a reservation. Second option is by plane, apparently its about $40 one way and the flight is 10 minutes. The third option I found, and the most entertaining, was by catamaran. I booked my trip with East Wind Catamaran who offered a day trip with snorkeling.

Upon arrival to the East Islander, our vessel, our host Chris went over our safety procedures. I am pretty sure Chris was a pirate in a previous life. He gave us a run down of all the necessary procedures then quickly assured us we would never need to use them. There was only caveat he gave us was that if we see him grab a life preserver and a bottle of rum we should probably grab one too, follow him, and don't forget to bring your own cup.

After about a 30 minute bumpy ride west we headed to our first destination, Luis Peña Nature Preserve. Here we were given a quick snorkeling lesson and cut loose to explore the fish and the coral. This was my first time snorkeling and I felt like I was swimming in the fish tank at the doctors office. So many bright fish to see and watch swirl around me.

After an hour and a half of snorkeling we got back on the boat and headed to the last and final destination of the day; Flamenco Beach. This beach was immaculate and the water was so clear and blue. Flamenco is the third top rated beach on the planet and I could see why. We spent the entire afternoon snorkeling, laying on the beach, diving off the boat, and casually sipping on Chris' special rum punch. The day could not have been more perfect or relaxing.

As our group of about 25 headed back onto the boat clouds rolled in and a downpour ensued. Talk about timing! On the trip back to the marina in Fajardo we jammed to Dave Matthews Band and sipped on our rum punch. Overall it was a fantastic day.

Cueva Ventana

There is a little known cave in Puerto Rico called Cueva Ventana, the Window Cave. When I mentioned wanting to go there over the weekend some of my students had no idea about this local gem. Today we made a trip to the Arecibo area and on our way out of town we stopped at the cave to explore and take in the amazing view.

We hiked up a trail about a 1/2 mile and found our way to the opening of the cave. We decided to take the less dirtier route and go down some home made stairs instead of repelling down a wall with roots of a tree. I didn't pack clothes to get dirty in on this trip and I wasn't about to ruin anything nice. I'm glad we opted for the stairs but they were just as tricky to navigate. Luckily a group before us had thrown a rope down and we could use that to guide us into the opening.

Once inside we turned on our head lamps and followed other flashlights ahead of us to find our way through the cave. There was lots of mud and it was rather slippery. We entered into a larger chamber with tons of cool formations and lots of bats above us. As we moved through the chamber we could see ahead the light and the view we had come for. The view from the window cave is awe inspiring. Cueva Ventana is located in the middle of the karst country area and we could see them all around us with a river down below. The trip, mud and bats were totally worth it. We stayed for about twenty minutes just taking in the scenery before heading back into the cave to make our way back out.

Although off the beaten path I would highly recommend checking this cave out to anyone who was visiting the island. The bonus is that it is free and you will see apart of Puerto Rico most people don't seek out. The formation of the tropical karsts made the background of the window cave perfect.

El Yunque and Las Croabas Lagoon

I am so excited to actually have a visitor here to help me explore the island. There are many things I found myself wanting to do however I quickly discovered that for these things, like hiking in the rain forest or kayaking to the bioluminescent bay, I really needed to have a partner.

Jeremy and I set off this morning to El Yunque. It's the only US National Rain Forest. We found our way to the entrance and made a quick stop at the Las Cabezas Look Out to see down the valley to the sea. It was very beautiful and peaceful, but we were really excited to be in the rain forest so we didn't stay long. We made our way up to the next stop, Coco Falls and as we approached we were greeted with signs saying the rain forest was closed due to poor weather. Earl struck again! There was tons of debris still on the road from the storm Monday and I have a feeling that is why the area was closed off. We didn't let that get us down. We decided to climb up around the rocks at Coco Falls and then made a back up plan.

We had reservations to kayak to the bio bay in Fajardo so we found our way to a local beach. We spent a quiet afternoon relaxing at Seven Seas Beach. Seven Seas got its name because at various times of the day the water might look seven different colors. When we were there the color of the water looked perfect to us and it was nice and warm. A couple hours of sun bathing and we were ready to hit our next and final destination of the day.

There are five bioluminescent bays in the world. Three are located within Puerto Rico. Two of them you can get to from the main island and then one is located on Vieques Island. We booked ours excursion with Kayak Puerto Rico and had a wonderful time with them. Our guide Alvin gave us a brief tutorial on how to kayak and then we launched just after the sun went down. I wasn't sure how it would go since neither of us had ever kayaked. I do have to say we totally rocked it!

We kayaked two miles through mangroves to Las Croabas Lagoon,which is apart of the Las Cabezas De San Juan Nature Reserve. The lagoon is home to billions of bioluminescent dinoflagellates (microscopic plankton). When you wave your hand through the water in the lagoon at night you trigger the plankton to light up in the water. It looked like a million fireflies were dancing around my hand. The only word I could use to describe it is spectacular. I wanted to stay there for hours and play to see them light up and the disappear. Just like fairy dust, it was magical. The experience was one of a kind and the only thing I wish I could change was capturing it on camera but it's impossible. Our guide told us that even National Geographic could not capture these fascinating creatures with their cameras. It truly is an amazing phenomenon that mother nature has blessed us with.

Earl

I survived my first hurricane. I would have to say it was actually less dramatic than I thought it would be. Monday morning trying to facilitate class was like trying to facilitate at home when it starts to snow. Everyone is excited, anxious, and really just waiting for the official "we are shutting down" announcement. Every two hours we pulled up the NOAA website to see the official notices and track the storm.

At 12:30 after the government offices shut down the call center shut down. I was with the masses stuck in grid lock traffic for two hours trying to get to the hotel. I finally got off the highway and used general sense of direction to get me there after taking over an hour to go less than a mile. Not a very well executed plan to have everyone go home at the same time but then again just like a snow day at home.

The storm passed by the island and really hit the east side. There winds were good and the rain did go side ways. I tried to take pictures of the surf but it was so humid my lense on my camera kept fogging up. The towns of Fajardo and Rio Grande got the brunt of the storm. Some of the folks at work were without power until Tuesday evening but overall everyone was safe. I can now say I'm so glad Earl is gone, Fiona is passing and it looks like the next thorn in my side with be Gustan early next week. That one can head on north too for all I care.

Oh Earl, Do you have to make landfall?

Day 31 and still going strong.

I am now more than half way through my trip and will have visitors over the next couple of weekends which will make it fly by even faster. I am pretty sure my kids have grown a foot each and have developed more than I can imagine. We chat and skype, but it is not the same as being home with them and I can tell my little pumpkin pie is definitely missing having a mama around. Soon sweetie I promise!

I had the best intentions on trekking into the middle of the island yesterday to see the mountains, some waterfalls and even hunt down a coffee plantation but it didn't happen. I chose to stick close to the hotel with the looming threat of Earl off shore and do some shopping in old San Juan. I found new streets to walk down and explore and finally located La Bombonera. I have been wanting to go there since it is an institution in San Juan and has the best mallorca in town. I am sad to report that while I did find it, I had also already eaten lunch so I did not partake in all the deliciousness that is the mallorca. It is now on my to do list with my visitors. For those of you who are curious to know what mallorca is, it's a sweet buttery bun almost like a cinnamon roll except it is not as dense, it's really light and fluffy. You have it heated with tiny bit butter and powdered sugar. It does not disappoint and one of the reasons I'm almost positive I've gained five pounds while I've been here.

Earl has now become a category 1 hurricane and is slated to make its impact on Monday afternoon into Tuesday morning. It is interesting to observe the activity of the island during this time. I know that my coworkers here are getting prepared and I have been updated that so far we are business as usual for work, but that can change depending on what NOAA says at 5 pm tonight. Tourists however are milling unaffected by the prospects of a storm in the next 24 hours. The surf is very rough today. Few folks actually in the water and there are quite a few areas roped off. I have prepared myself with bottled water, peanut butter and jelly, and some "survival snacks" in the form of chocolate. It'll be an interesting ride and all I can do is hope Earl will turn north in the next few hours.

Cabo Rojo

I headed to the southwest corner of the island today to Cabo Rojo. This is where the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea meet and the views were absolutely spectacular.

The drive took over 3 hours and when I arrived I was ready to be out of the car. I stopped at a little house on the way and ate a local treat; a huge fried plantain with garlic oil. It was pretty tasty but what really caught my attention at this stop was the iguanas. I saw two huge ones roaming the beach. They both were a good two feet long and it was fun to watch them run. Although I did not try to make friends I was able to get close enough for some great pictures for the kids.

After my plantains and iguana hunting I headed off the the Los Morrilos Lighthouse. The walk up to the lighthouse was full of the brightest orange and white butterflies I have ever seen fluttering along the path. When I reached the top about a half mile later, I met the light house and then made a beeline for the cliffs and the view. I realized at that moment I wished I lived in that lighthouse. The views of the red cliffs (Cabo Rojo) and the ocean were breathtaking. I don't think the pictures I took can do it justice.

I headed into the lighthouse and toured the 7 rooms on the bottom. There walls were lined with book pages and then they had been painted over. I later discovered the book pages were Homer's Odyssey. I am not sure why that book but each room I entered had copies readily available for visitors to sit and read if they'd like. I made it to the observation level and took in some more spectacular views including the beach that was next on my agenda.

Dirty Beach was actually quiet beautiful. It gets its name from the road you have to travel to get there; bumpy and muddy. I spent about two hours at the beach people watching, looking at the fish in the water, and sun bathing with my SPF70. It was a nice way to unwind and mentally prepare for the trek back.

Although the trip is long, I would definitely recommend folks visit Cabo Rojo if they have an extended stay in Puerto Rico. It's off the beaten path and well worth the drive for views, the beach, and the lighthouse.

Another great afternoon in Old San Juan

I started my Sunday off with making my way down to the pool area and securing a spot in a hammock. This was my first time actually hanging out down there. I found one of five hammocks open next to the beach and climbed in. For the next two hours I read and watched all the different people meander in and out of the beach area. It was so relaxing and the palm trees provided just enough shade so that I didn't have to worry about getting burnt.

After my relaxing morning I decided to take advantage of "cruise ship Sundays," as I call them, and go to Old San Juan. I knew there would be tons of tourists that would provide more good people watching, but also a lot of street vendors would be out so I could look at their goods.

I stopped off at the Hard Rock Cafe and had lunch. Some might roll their eyes but it was actually a nice little treat to have a meal where I didn't have to guess what would be in it. From there I walked west down along the outside wall of the city. There were tons of vendors out and a band playing music. I stopped along the way and took several snapshots of statues. It was the first time I had been in that area and it was a nice surprise. Plenty of police out around the city as I counted three separate cruise ships docked in the marina.

I walked around the city for a good two or three hours. Stopping at one spot that served drinks while you got a pedicure. The bartender was disappointed when I just asked for water. It was too hot, but after I had a pedi and cooled off I did find Barrachina. This is the birthplace of the Pina Colada so of course I had to have one.

After a few more hours of walking around and grabbing dinner at Tijuana's Bar and Grill, where they had a mariachi band playing and patrons singing at the top of their lungs, I finally made my way back to my hotel. It was a nice relaxing day of exploring more of a little city I am starting to love.

The Caves

This morning I headed off to Parque de las Cavernas del Rio Camuy. When I arrived the park was pretty empty. I was surprised because it is a popular tourist destination, but then I found out why. This part of the island has received so much rain over the week that the main cavern, and really the main attraction, was closed. If I still wanted to enter I could and they would show me the sinkholes, but for safety reasons we could not tour the cavern.

I drove over an hour to get there so I stayed and boy am I glad I did. We watched a short safety video and then headed to the trolley area. The super intendant came out and said he had just been down at the cavern. They were trying to see if we could still go, but due to the rain and the amount of rocks and sediment that have fallen from the ceiling, the trolleys could not enter and it really would be unsafe.

We went to the first sinkhole called Tres Pueblos. Three towns have their borders all meet in the middle of this sinkhole. It was an amazing view and hard to imagine the size. Our guide told us that you could fit the El Morro Fort into the sinkhole, that is how large it was. We walked around the perimeter as he pointed out different plants and even some very large spiders before we arrived at a second platform where you could see further into the sinkhole and actually view part of the underground river. At this spot you could see where it left one side and then flowed north towards the Atlantic Ocean into the other side of a cavern. I thought it was impressive.

From there we journeyed to our second destination. The Spiral Sinkhole. To get there you walk down 205 steps to a platform that over looks what seems to be the mouth of a cave. We had water falling on us from the ceiling above. It was hard to see into this one. Our guide said it was about 300 - 400 feet deep. This sinkhole made the trip worth it. The view was just amazing and at one point our guide started making a screeching noise and we could see the bats wake up and start to fly around inside. The trek down was not so bad but 205 steps up with some serious humidity was not as fun.

Overall I thought the tour was cool even if I was not able to see the cave. From there I headed further west. I wanted to see the Indian face carved into the rock near Isabela. Monumento al Indio is a monument in the honor of Cacique Mabodoma. I would say that this is probably something that you could forgo if you were coming to Puerto Rico. It was neat to see but there wasn't really a spot to pull off and then after I saw it there wasn't much else except to turn around and head back.

It was another fun adventure for a Saturday in Puerto Rico.

The Storms

I am two weeks into my journey and it feels like it has been longer. This definitely will be a trip I will not forget.

My favorite part so far has been the storms. For the last two weeks I have seen the coolest lightening storms I've ever seen. My favorite so far was last week. I ventured to Condado for the first time for dinner. On my way back I stopped and grabbed a cup of ice cream, sat on a bench overlooking the ocean, and watched a beautiful dance of lights in the clouds off shore. It was amazing to see how high the clouds were and how the lights flashed so many different colors in bolts and sheets. I was mesmerized. Since that first show of lights I have been blessed daily with some sort of encore. Even now as I update my blog there is a light show off shore headed over the hotel. I can see flashes of light periodically fill the sky from my balcony.

Whats on my agenda this weekend? I am off for another "must see" adventure. I am heading to the Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy. This is one of the largest cave systems in the world and the largest in the Western Hemisphere. It is also home to an underground river. There will be lots of tourists and tour guides. Surely I will not get lost and be safe!

Ponce "The Pearl of the South"

I took my first road trip today and headed to Ponce, the seconded largest city in Puerto Rico. They have a bit of a rivalry with San Juan. In Ponce they say "Ponce es Ponce" meaning Ponce is Ponce the rest of Puerto Rico could be a parking lot for all they care.

The drive was beautiful. I took the main interstate through the central region of the island. The foliage and terrain throughout the drive was amazing to see. Sugar cane fields and bright green rolling hills all meeting at the Caribbean Sea.

I wound my way through the hills of Ponce to arrive first at La Cruceta del Vigia. This is a huge cross that overlooks the town and the sea. Originally a hut was built here and then a cross tree where watch guards would raise flags to send alerts if ships were entering into the proximity of their port. In the 1980s the cross was resurrected and made into an observatory. The views were great however I think I got a little sick from the heights. I didn't stay at the observatory very long before descending down to solid ground.

From there I headed off to Castillo Serralles. This "castle" was the home of Don Juan Serralles and his family. The Serralles family own the distillery that produces Don Q rum. They also helped revolutionize the sugar cane industry in Ponce. Many of their practices were adopted across the island and are still used today. The home was amazing. There were several rooms with original furniture and the views were awesome from the terraces. Unfortunately during the tour they would not allow us to take pictures until we got to the terrace were part of a Disney movie called "Princess Protection" was filmed. Apparently I'm hip for visiting this location and didn't even know it. Part of me wonders if I'm going to have to check out the movie now just to say "I've been there!"

After spending two and a half hours at Castillo Serralles I finally found Las Delicias Plaza (Plaza of Delights). I toured around the tree lined square and did some people watching. Unfortunately the main cathedral was under construction and I could not go in. It was one of my recommended places to see in Ponce. I did however get to see Parque de Bombas; although with this paint job it's hard to miss. This is one of the most photographed buildings in Puerto Rico aside from El Morro. You can now tour an old fire truck inside and see some of the history. I stopped briefly but the building was not air conditioned and it was 90 plus humidity so I snapped some photos and kept on walking.

Overall my adventure was great. I only ran into a few situations where speaking Spanish would have been essential. Usually the blank stare on my face tips them off that I don't speak Spanish and they will mutter in English back what I need which is typically how much I owe them for parking or a bottle of water. I do have to admit there have been times I have been intimidated that I don't speak the language and cannot read the street signs, but I am slowly catching on. At least I know salida means exit and pare means stop.

Castillo San Cristobal and El Morro

I spent my morning and afternoon exploring the forts in Old San Juan. Both are very rich in history and the architecture is amazing.

The bulk of my time and was spent at Castillo San Cristobal. The grounds are beautifully kept and there seemed to be more spaces to explore. Although I didn't have a flashlight, some of the barracks and the underground tunnel were lit. It was very impressive to see this huge fortress that was built in 1783. The dungeon walls had original drawings from the prisoners kept there. I couldn't imagine being held captive in such a space. Another highlight was seeing the close sleeping quarters of the soldiers stationed here. The beds were lined up literally touching each other. Original uniforms hung and it gave you a sense of what it would have been like to live there.

El Morro, seemed to be the more popular spot for tourists to visit. Construction began in 1539. They withstood many battles at that fort including a more famous one from Sir Francis Drake of England. This fort had many levels to it, but during my visit the lower levels were closed off for restoration so I was only able to explore a few of them. All pictures posted are from El Morro.

After trekking through both forts I did meander through Old San Juan. The streets are cobble stone and close together. In some ways it reminded me of being in Barcelona. Nothing is posted in English and after some guessing I was able to navigate around. I made it through the Old San Juan Cathedral before I discover a great little bar were I was finally able to try some authentic Puerto Rican food. I had Mofongo Relleno de Pollo. This dish is made similar to a chile relleno; mashed plantains stuffed with chicken. It was absolutely delicious and I'll be dragging anyone who visits me there to try it.

Greetings from Puerto Rico!

After 10 hours of travel, I have arrived to a very warm and humid San Juan. Since my arrival I have had more misadventure than I thought possible all courtesy of my hotel!

I'm staying at the Caribe Hilton, in their "villas." It's just a regular hotel room, nothing fancy. I am still trying to figure out what exactly makes it a villa, there are no cabana boys? The grounds at the hotel are beautiful. The pools and the beaches are very clean and inviting. This is my first experience with humidity at this level so jumping into the water has been extremely appealing. Overall I think it will be a nice place to live, however the staff is not as friendly or helpful as I thought they would be for a Hilton.

My misadventures started with a kitchenless room. Not a huge deal however I would like to be able to bring lunch and prepare healthier foods. Let's face it, I am here for the long haul. After attempting to secure a new room I was shot down and told to try again in the morning. Upon waking I found that the door to my room had been pushed open and only the metal bar across the top had prevented entry. YIKES is right my friends! No explanation from my hotel, no apologies. They shrugged it off. When I arrived home from my first day of class I found that my room was left unlocked and open. YIKES AGAIN! No apologies, but I did get an offer to have hotel security come up and survey my room to see if anything was missing. Needless to say tomorrow I will have a new room and if all else fails I will abort ship and find a new hotel. They do have 56 more nights to redeem themselves. Where are Paris and Nicky when you need them?